OW Trip to Cassino, September 2024

23 September saw a group of nine Old Wykehamists, four wives and one parent fly to Rome-Fiumicino airport.  After a leisurely coach journey we reached Cassino. Given the delights of so many Italian towns, it does not have much to recommend it, but that is entirely understandable when one learns that there are no pre-war buildings extant, such was the intensity of Allied bombing.

The trip was organised by James Webster (CoRo, 1992- ) and Michael Wallace (CoRo, 1986-2020), supported by Suzanne Foster (College Archivist, 2005- ) and retired Chaplain, Paul Burt (CoRo, 2006-12). We were installed in the Hotel La Pace for the very good reason that its padrone was extremely knowledgeable about all four battles for the town and its famous abbey; it was full of interesting artefacts.

Tuesday began with a mise en scène by Michael at the statue of General Anders (see photograph above), the Polish leader who finally took the Abbey that loomed above us.  This was followed by a tour of the town’s museum, the Historiale, which was a good mix of 21st Century multi-media exposition and troves of exhibits.

It was but a short trip to the town’s Commonwealth War Graves Cemetery, like all, in immaculate condition. Its size indicates the scale of the Allied campaign northwards under the sometimes-criticised General Mark Clark, and the immense difficulties his troops faced in attempting to break through the defensive Gustav Line.  We would not be there if all the Wykehamists who fought there had survived the battle. Michael and James had unearthed the stories of several who had not. Our first call was the grave of Lt Col John Loveday (H, 1924-29), uncle of the recently-departed Mark. A career officer, he was killed by a shell whilst attending an O (Orders) Group.

On then to one of the three bridges that the Allies tried to push across the several rivers around Cassino. At Amazon Bridge we were treated to an in-depth discourse on the design and construction (under fire) of this Bailey Bridge by ex-Sapper and Toyeite Richard Pawson (B, 1962-67).

Back to the bus for a slow crawl up to the Monastery, sitting in a truly majestic setting.  It too was flattened by Allied bombing, but has been fully restored. To say that the Germans had great fields of fire is an understatement.  Its approaches are very steep, and devoid of any cover. Thence to the nearby Polish cemetery. Our Sen Man was Fred Heatley (F, 1953-58). On our previous tour to Arnhem, he pulled a rabbit out of a hat at the graveside of distinguished surgeon Lippman Kessel, by telling us he had been a clinical colleague (Kessell died in 1986 but asked to be buried at Oosterbeek civilian cemetery). On this visit we learned that Fred’s father had been chief medical adviser to Anders’ Polish forces during the campaign! From here we walked up a steep hill to the summit of Point 593 and its Polish memorial, with commanding views to the NW of Cassino.

Wednesday saw a visit to the German cemetery, stark as ever, and then to Minturno where we learned about the likes of Henry Tuke (H, 1935-41) and John Pears (B, 1928-33). 

On the final day on the way back to Rome we stopped by the two achingly-beautiful Anzio CWGC cemeteries to learn about the likes of David Scrymgoer-Wedderburn (K, 1925-30)) and Duncan McMurtrie (I, 1937-41), and the perils of trying to break out of the Anzio beachhead. 

The trip was enhanced by Suzanne’s additional material - those parts of Shaun Hulllis’ recently-published book A Noble Company that pertain to the Italian campaign.  It is of course, based on the correspondence between the Bobber and his ex-pupils, and at times is unbearably moving.  Our thanks go to the trusty trio for yet another educational and fun trip that reinforces our awe of our forebears.